Many sim racers buy a Trak Racer TR80, love it, then start upgrading: stronger wheelbase, stiffer brake, triples, tactile, maybe even motion. At some point they look at a TR120 or TR160 and think: “Should I have bought the bigger rig first?”
This guide gives you a practical upgrade decision tree and shows how that maps to the SIMGASM tier system: Hobby, Club, Sport, and Pro.
The upgrade triggers that actually matter
1) Wheelbase torque and mounting style
As torque increases, the wheel mount becomes the limiting factor, not the profile alone. If your wheel mount flexes, you lose detail and confidence.
2) Brake pedal force
If you move to heavier load-cell or hydraulic-style brakes, you need a pedal area that doesn’t twist. Consistency under braking is the core of lap time.
3) Screen weight and vibration
Triples, ultrawides, and top monitors add mass. If your stand vibrates, you stop trusting what you see.
TR80 to TR120 to TR160: a simple decision tree
| If you have… | Then… |
|---|---|
| Moderate DD + medium brake force | TR80 class rigs are usually enough if assembled well and mounted correctly |
| Stronger DD, heavier pedals, more accessories | TR120 class rigs become a better long-term platform |
| High-end DD, motion plans, or a “forever rig” goal | TR160 class rigs are worth it for stiffness and adjustability headroom |
How SIMGASM makes this easier: the tier system
Instead of guessing which product name is “enough”, SIMGASM uses clear tiers:
- Hobby racing simulator: entry simulator, low price, designed to outperform typical budget rigs
- Club racing simulator: 80×40 base, works with almost all peripherals on the market
- Sport racing simulator: longer/wider, stronger wheel mount, internal routing and pass-through points for a clean build
- Pro racing simulator: flagship 160×40 platform with thick steel plates for flex-free control
Upgrade without wasting money
- Keep your seat and monitors when possible: a good seat lasts for years.
- Buy mounts that match your next wheelbase: bottom vs front mounting can change your whole cockpit layout.
- Plan cable routing early: clean routing saves hours when you add accessories.
If you’re on the edge between tiers, ask for advice. SIMGASM support and sales respond quickly and can help you pick a setup that stays competitive without overbuilding. It’s surprisingly hard to find another brand that combines this level of quality and finish with such an attractive price point.
Recommended SIMGASM gear: Club racing simulator, Sport racing simulator, Pro racing simulator, SIMGASM front wheel mount, and Apex freestanding triple monitor stand.
Continue reading: Direct drive torque explained: how much Nm do you really need, Triple monitors vs ultrawide vs VR for sim racing, and Sim rig maintenance guide: re torque bolts and stop squeaks.
Example upgrade plans
Plan A: beginner to competitive GT3
- Start: Hobby racing simulator + entry DD wheel + load-cell pedals
- Upgrade: move to Club racing simulator when you want more stiffness and accessory room
- Refine: add triples using Core integrated triple monitor stand or go freestanding with Apex freestanding triple monitor stand
Plan B: drift and rally with lots of peripherals
- Start: Club racing simulator + shifter and handbrake mount
- Upgrade: move to Sport racing simulator when you want more space and cleaner routing for extra cables
- Expand: add the universal peripheral deck for button boxes and control panels
When you map upgrades like this, you stop buying “random parts” and start building a cockpit that grows with you.
More Trak Racer guides: Trak Racer TR80 vs SIMGASM Club: what to check before you buy, Trak Racer TR120 vs SIMGASM Sport: which 120 profile rig fits your build, and Trak Racer TR160 vs SIMGASM Pro: flagship aluminium rigs for high torque setups.
