The Trak Racer TR8 Pro is a popular tubular-style cockpit. It looks like a “real race chassis”, it usually assembles faster than a full profile rig, and it can feel very solid for many setups.
So why do so many sim racers still move from tubular rigs to aluminium profile rigs like the SIMGASM Hobby, Club, Sport, and Pro? The answer is not just strength. It’s adjustability, upgrade freedom, and the ability to dial in your ergonomics precisely.
Tubular vs aluminium profile: what changes in real driving
| Real-world factor | Tubular rigs (example: TR8 Pro) | Aluminium profile rigs (example: SIMGASM) |
|---|---|---|
| Ergonomics adjustment | Good, but often limited to fixed mounting points | Extremely flexible: wheel, pedals, shifter, monitors, and accessories can move in small increments |
| Upgrades and add-ons | Usually brand-specific brackets | Universal T-slot ecosystem; easy to add, move, or remove hardware |
| Long-term ownership | Sometimes requires “workarounds” for new gear | Designed for constant changes: new wheelbase, new pedals, new seating position |
When a tubular rig is a great choice
- You want a simpler build with fewer configuration decisions
- You prefer the look and feel of a steel chassis
- Your hardware plan is stable and you don’t expect big changes
Where aluminium profile rigs win
1) You can actually fix comfort issues
Many “my back hurts” problems in sim racing come from small misalignments: a wheel that is 20 mm too high, pedals that are too close, or a seat angle that doesn’t match your hips. Profile rigs make those adjustments easy and repeatable.
2) You can mount anything cleanly
Want a dedicated shifter and handbrake position for rally or drift? Use a mount that can move. On SIMGASM rigs you can add the shifter and handbrake mount and fine-tune height and reach without drilling holes.
3) You can plan for bigger wheels and stronger pedals
If you think you’ll move to stronger direct drive or a stiffer brake, it’s cheaper to choose a rig tier that matches your future. SIMGASM makes this easy with clear steps:
- Hobby racing simulator for an affordable “first real cockpit”
- Club racing simulator for an 80×40 all-rounder
- Sport racing simulator for a longer, wider, cable-managed 120×40 build
- Pro racing simulator for a flagship 160×40 platform built for maximum loads and adjustability
A balanced decision: what should you buy?
If you want a quick, straightforward build and you like the tubular feel, a TR8 Pro-type rig can make you very happy. If you want to upgrade over time, refine ergonomics, and keep the setup looking clean, aluminium profile is usually the better long-term bet.
SIMGASM rigs are built by people who use simulation hardware daily. The goal is a high-quality cockpit with a clean look, competitive pricing, and fast support when you need help matching mounts and accessories to your gear.
Recommended SIMGASM gear: Hobby racing simulator, Club racing simulator, Sport racing simulator, Pro racing simulator, and Core Recline seat.
Continue reading: Steering angle guide: wheel rotation, soft lock and car types, Direct drive torque explained: how much Nm do you really need, and Are sim racing simulators worth it?.
More Trak Racer guides: Trak Racer TR80 vs SIMGASM Club: what to check before you buy, Trak Racer TR120 vs SIMGASM Sport: which 120 profile rig fits your build, and Quiet sim rig build: reduce vibration on Trak Racer rigs and aluminium profile cockpits.
