More buttons don’t make you faster. The right buttons make you calmer which is often the difference between a clean race and a mistake.
This guide helps you build a button box (or Stream Deck) layout that improves race execution instead of becoming a “cool-looking distraction”.
The first rule: map by urgency, not by aesthetics
Every control you map should answer one question:
“Will I need this while I’m still steering the car?”
What to map first (the essentials)
| Category | Functions that deserve “prime real estate” | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Race-critical | Pit limiter, radio / push-to-talk, tear-off / windshield, black box next/prev | You may need these instantly, without looking down. |
| Car tuning | Brake bias (rotary), TC, ABS, engine map, fuel mix | Lets you adapt to tyre wear, fuel loads, and weather changes. |
| Pit strategy | Tyres on/off, auto fuel on/off, fuel +/-, repair toggle | Prevents menu mistakes and reduces pit stress. |
| Quality-of-life | Headlights, wipers, starter/ignition (immersion), replay controls | Nice to have, but don’t let these steal the best buttons. |
How many buttons do you actually need?
- Minimum effective: 8–12 buttons (race-critical + a few pit actions).
- Competitive comfort: 12–24 inputs (add brake bias/TC/ABS + pit macros).
- Endurance / streaming: multiple pages (Stream Deck) or extra encoders for strategy and comms.
Layout strategy that works for most drivers
1) Put emergency inputs where your hand naturally rests
Pit limiter and radio should be reachable without moving your shoulders.
2) Use different control types for different jobs
- Momentary button: pit limiter, push-to-talk, tear-off.
- Toggle switch: headlights, wipers, ignition (if you like immersion).
- Rotary encoder: brake bias, TC, ABS, engine map (because you change these in small steps).
3) Make “pit actions” idiot-proof
Pit mistakes usually happen because people click the wrong checkbox while tired. If you use iRacing pit macros, you can turn pit actions into single presses. (We cover this in detail in the pit macro guide.)
Mounting your controls without turning your cockpit into a mess
A great layout is useless if the button box wobbles, cables snag, or your keyboard is balanced on your lap.
Recommended SIMGASM control-zone setup
- Keyboard swivel mount: consistent reach for menus and chat.
- Mouse tray: keeps your mouse usable for setup work and navigating overlays.
- Cupholder: endurance quality-of-life (hydration wins races).
Pick a rig that supports clean routing
Button boxes, dashboards, shifters and extra monitors add a lot of USB and power wiring. The Sport and Pro rigs make it easier to keep this clean using integrated cable pass-throughs.
- Hobby (SIMGASM Hobby simulator): a low-cost entry rig that still punches above its price class, great for your first real cockpit.
- Club (SIMGASM Club simulator): 80×40 profile strength and adjustability, ideal for almost any wheelbase and pedal set you’ll find on the market.
- Sport (SIMGASM Sport simulator): longer and wider, stronger and more adjustable wheel mount, plus integrated cable pass-throughs so you can route cables cleanly without clips.
- Pro (SIMGASM Pro simulator): our flagship 160×40 profile rig for extreme forces, motion-ready builds, and maximum adjustability with a flex-free feel.
Common mistakes
- Mapping too much too early: start with a “core set” and add only what you truly use.
- Mixing layouts across sims: try to keep the same logic in iRacing, ACC, and other sims (same button = same job).
- Ignoring ergonomics: if you reach too far, you’ll stop using the control in races.
Continue reading
- iRacing pit macros and Stream Deck setup
- Streaming and content creation sim racing setup guide
- Sim racing seat selection and fitting guide
